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In Agia Napa I went to bed wondering if I would be able to visit North Cyprus and Varosha the next day. Or if I would have to spend that Christmas in that terrible hotel and especially downsize the trip.
Cape St. Andrew , the most beautiful part of visiting North Cyprus
The morning started badly, because I had chosen to have breakfast at the hotel so that I would not have to waste time and thus leave early, but instead they sent me to another hotel where I would, however, have to wait until 8:30. I begged for coffee and they were kind enough to seat me along with the workers who were to do renovations in the semi-closed hotel. I lost time that later proved decisive for the hidden car issue I have already written about, but the important thing was that I was decent.
It was one of the most original Christmas days of my life. After arriving in Nicosia and changing cars, I spent it almost entirely in North Cyprus. I had trusted that being Muslim, I would have no problem finding where to eat. In fact, whether because of the delay and to accomplish the ambitious tour I had in mind; or because I was not hungry at all being still slightly feverish, food was not a problem.
The country is small, practically a peninsula whose end tapers gradually to Cape St. Andrew. The scenery is spectacular, and although the roads are not always great, crossing the Karpas region is unforgettable.
The last bit becomes unpaved and that is where the free donkeys are, in fact, these make real roadblocks to stop cars and demand duty from tourists. I arrived at the very end of Cape St. Andrew, just in time for Christmas lunch, shared feta, olives and breadsticks with one of those free donkeys.
Famagusta, the saddest part of North Cyprus
Heading back to South Cyprus, I had chosen to sleep in Famagusta to visit the old town and especially the Varosha district. I arrived late in the afternoon and still quite exhausted, failed to complete my itinerary and recharged my batteries a bit in my room (luxury hotel by my standards and paid a pittance).
I took a look at the center and chose the restaurant wrongly; I happened upon a place where smoking was allowed. Next to me was already a couple who stayed even after I left; the whole time (rather slow service) they didn’t touch food and must have smoked I don’t know how many cigarettes, but by then I was there.
I also made a mistake in ordering, because no less than two waiters found it difficult to understand my request whether the portions were large, and in the end I ordered two dishes, one of which I left almost whole. It was a kind of tortelli, like the very good Polish piroghi, but these almost smashed and bordering on inedible. I made my peace with Turkish cuisine (which I love), two weeks later, but in Dover, England.
Varosha
I wanted to visit North Cyprus for the nature, the free donkeys, but also for the recent history of this unfortunate area. The next morning I went to Varosha, the neighborhood abandoned since 1974, when there were shootings during the civil war. There is a path that goes through buildings that have been abandoned since then and where nature has taken over again It is touching, especially imagining those who lived there and escaped at that time, never could have imagined that they would never be able to return there.
Home set of travel The scent of the Mediterranean islands
Previous stop Getting sick on the road and in a bad hotel
Next stop Meet people on the road in the island of cats
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