This post is also available in: Italiano (Italian)

I had warned all my acquaintances about my idea to travel to Thailand solo. On the day of departure, I went to work in the morning. When I said goodbye to my colleagues, they recommended I be careful, but that they were certain I would have a good time. I told them about the previous night’s dream in which I was in a bus with a blonde girl.

They were a little worried because by now it was well established that I was always getting into some kind of trouble on the road. Especially on the occasion of the last distant and exotic destination (Cuba) the trouble had been pretty big. But this time I was going back to traveling solo, so I would be more careful.

This does not mean that I did not come across something original; in fact:

  • I was chased by stray dogs (twice in the same evening)
  • I fell off a bamboo bridge
  • I tipped over from a canoe together with a Frenchman

In those 15 days in Southeast Asia I had to deal with several French people, and despite the prejudices we have in Italy, all of them quite nice.

For the first time I was equipped with a phone with which to capture moments and update via Facebook those interested in my adventures.

Brick colonnade of the remains of a temple in Sukhothai
In the area north of Bangkok are the ancient capitals of the Siam kingdom where few Italians go but for me it is a must if you want to travel in Thailand

Visiting Ayutthaya

I landed in Bangkok and immediately took a train to Ayutthaya, which is one of the ancient capitals of the ancient Siam Kingdom.

Already on the train I felt completely in another world, uniquely Western and pleasantly (in the less touristy areas) in the indifference of the Thai people. A great advantage of traveling in Thailand is that travelers go to places where locals also go. It’s not like in Africa, where, for example, only rich tourists go on safaris, so prices go up and there is less authenticity.

I took a beat-up graziella bike to the hostel and rode around the Buddhist temples all day. I had been told there was a risk of stray dogs in that city, and during the day I had seen them snoozing in the sultry ruins, and I didn’t worry about it.

In the evening, still on my bike, I went to the central area full of stalls to have dinner. I also found a pub with outdoor tables and where they played rock music. In August it is hot and humid; therefore, I quickly realized that cool, cheap beers would be a constant.

Ayuttaya's series of giant stupas rising to the sky
The most beautiful thing about Ayutthaya in my opinion is the series of stupas well preserved remnants of the ancient capital

Chased by stray dogs

On the way back to the hostel, I passed two small dogs who started chasing me after a series of growls and barks that I had ignored. I was convinced they were all talk and badges, so yes, I sped up my pedaling a bit, but still being quite serene. When one of them brushed against my heel I decided it was time to mill my legs. But I couldn’t distance them!

A head carved into a rock is encased by a tree in Ayuttaya; this is one of the most iconic photos of traveling in Thailand
This rock head is encompassed by a tree It is located in Ayutthaya where I was chased by stray dogs

At one point the rusty gears of my powerful vehicle began to make sinister noises. For a few moments I thought that my end had come. I imagined that the bicycle would crumble beneath me and I would in turn be crumbled by the beasts.

And instead the two were startled and immobilized by the strange noise, the bike remained intact, and I walked away relieved.

The adrenaline that pervaded my body mixed with the Chang beer (another must-have of traveling in Thailand) that I had ingested in abundance. Then relaxation from the narrow escape from danger and being distracted about the route ahead did the rest. So within minutes, I found myself in the same spot as before, with the two little dogs who probably thought I was teasing them. This time, however, I knew what was in store for me, and I did not make the mistake of underestimating my new enemies, who, being still some distance away, I managed to avoid with a super-strategic and mighty U-turn: fortunately, there were no cars behind me.

I could tell amusedly that I had been chased by stray dogs, and twice!

I recounted this incident on Facebook, reassuring that I had already had the mishap and so the rest of the trip would be uneventful. Hello.

Sukothai, Lopburi and Phitsanulok

Stupa and temple present in the lake islet of Sukhothai Archaeological Park
This temple is located in the lake islet of the Sukhothai Archaeological Park

On my way to Sukhothai by train, I passed through Lopburi famous for its monkey temple; I did not stop, but I saw them well, partly because they are countless. The town made headlines during the Covid because without the legacies of tourists, the monkeys had no food and began to get restless, and the authorities had to intervene to feed them.

I also stopped in Phitsanulok, which I did not find particularly interesting, but it was convenient as a stop.

Instead, in Sukhothai I had another glimpse of really beautiful ruins. I also settled in for another aspect typical of that country, and that is a certain cheerfulness in considering what are normal safety precautions for us.

Traveling in Thailand and safety

Maybe not everyone gets chased by stray dogs, but in Thailand it is common to see

  • three or four people on a moped
  • clamorous weaving of electrical wires
  • People improvising a kitchen by lighting a gas cylinder stove on a sidewalk

On the way back from the temples I found myself on what must have been a regular bus with a French couple: it was basically an open box with two benches, and that alone seemed unsafe to us. Using public transportation is another thing I loved about traveling in Thailand.

At each stop someone got on, and already from some we Europeans were looking at each other with an air between astonishment and amusement because we seemed crammed into that very rickety vehicle. We stopped in front of a school and I looked curiously at all those vociferous kids in their nice uniforms, still unaware that they would be my fellow passengers: they all got on! Some hung on the outside of the railing or one of the companions on the edge. I was reminded of the scene in which Fantozzi to cling to the last passenger on the bus, chaining them all out. I laughed to myself alone like a fool the whole time.

Home travel Travel to Thailand and Cambodia: Buddhist temples, stray dogs and a lawyer

Next stop Visit Chiang Mai and fell from bamboo bridge

Two very pretty female tourists, from the back, inside the ruins of a Buddhist temple in Sukhothai
I admit that I am not sure why I took this picture Was it because of the temple which I had already photographed or because of the two chicks

Trips taken, travel stories divided by continent

Countries visited in my travel stories

Anecdotes, divided by type in travel narratives

newsletter strange things traveling

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Fabio Viroli
Ho sempre avuto tante passioni, ma da sempre più o meno latenti, le principali sono viaggiare e scrivere. Tra le altre cose ho una laurea in psicologia; ho fatto per più di 30 anni l’allenatore di basket; leggo tanti libri; sono stato molto appassionato di sport e di musica rock; e faccio improvvisazione teatrale