This post is also available in:
Italiano (Italian)
My weekend in Bucharest in September 2024 was improvised and decided at the last minute, and as with my first time it involved a not-so-happy story, but this time I went alone.
Relationship in crisis
We had been together for a few months, but for a while already I had not been satisfied. I had made it clear to her but she justified it with various reasons, mostly momentary and because of a work spike. In addition, she had some health problems and most importantly she had already spent money on a surprise weekend getaway that would be her present for my birthday.
Months earlier I had done the same to her, and we spent a nice weekend in Tuscany. In fact the weekends out that we did were very pleasant, but the routine was a drag. She was always complaining and in recent times fleecing me about everything I said, and most of all it seemed as if she really didn’t want to see me.
Suddenly a weekend in Bucharest
If it had not been for my birthday weekend in late September, I probably would have ended it earlier. When she dismissed me via text rather cowardly, I was relieved and didn’t even deign to respond.
But there remained the question of resolving where and how to spend my vacation days, which I had had to book well in advance for my office organization and which were just four days away.
I had no intention of giving it up, but there were 2 big problems that would not have been such if I had gone as a couple as planned. I was without a car and without a credit card.
The first one was knocked out and the garage was not sure when they would give it to me. The second one I had lost in Bolivia weeks before and the bank did not know when the new one would arrive.
The only almost decent flight (as a price compared to usual) from Bologna was for a weekend in Bucharest. It was not among my upcoming destinations, but basically I was interested in it having never seen it well. I booked by ATM without any problems. The difficulty was instead for lodging, but that issue deserves a separate chapter.
City tour, including Orthodox churches, disco pubs and communist buildings
The weekend in Bucharest was actually quite extended. I arrived mid-afternoon on Thursday and left Sunday mid-morning; I slept fairly centrally near a stop for the convenient bus to the airport.
All pleased with my impeccable organization, I also thought that my usual anecdote to tell would be the all-too-innocent fact that my seat neighbor on the plane vomited badly filling a couple of bags, but leaving me untouched.
After the difficult check-in (see later), I headed downtown to appreciate its mix of narrow streets and old buildings, but also of the contrast with communist and more modern ones. The city is an interesting mix that works. The nightlife is extremely lively, and on the two main streets there is a succession of loud and crowded clubs, with speakers blaring Pupo’s chocolate ice cream.
On Sunday I returned to take a more leisurely tour of the center, without going into the museums, but visiting a few Orthodox churches and most importantly I can say, circumnavigating the mammoth Palace of Parliament, a symbol of the Ceausescu regime.
The wrong dinner and the perfect lunch
The weekend in Bucharest will also remain indelible in my memory for what happened to me in the restaurants.
On the first evening, as it was precisely my birthday, I wanted to treat myself to a dinner at a place with typical cuisine, just outside the hustle and bustle. It was early so it was still filling up; they sat me down in a small room where there was for the time being only one ‘other couple.
By the time I ordered and went to the bathroom, they immediately brought me my plate, which was plentiful and consisted of 2 different courses. Not really knowing what I had ordered, I did not know what to expect, so I simply trusted the waiter. I was well aware that portions tend to be large around there. I noticed that the couple, despite having arrived before me, had not yet been brought anything. Hungry as I was I pitied them and pounced on what might have been an appetizer/ side dish and the main course, although I had imagined it differently.
When I was almost finished, but was practically full already, another waitress came and brought me another plate. Both of us were quite stunned and doubtful. The second dish was definitely more appetizing and in fact I later verified that it was the sarmale that is what I had ordered and it was impossible not to try it.
After a few minutes the headwaiter arrived. They had been mistaken and had brought me the couple’s paltry order, so it was actually as if I had eaten only for 2–but no dessert for that birthday. I struggled not a little to walk home; I thought I would burst.
Saturday lunch, on the other hand, was perfect. Not quite as cheap as one might expect, but in a historic venue; impeccable service and good food.
Kicked out of the restaurant
Instead, the last night was unforgettable, in a bad way.
As mentioned, the center is full of disco pubs with blasting music; in a couple there are even undressed ladies shaking their asses on the tables. I certainly didn’t expect to eat well, but I didn’t feel like going out of my way or looking very hard. Since it was still early, I asked for a table at the place that seemed quieter.
A blond waiter seated me. When I had already read the meager menu, exchanged a couple of smiles with the ladies at the next table and decided what to order; the dark-haired waiter arrived. I had to leave because I was alone. Hallucinating, and really stupid him, if he had known what I had eaten the night before….
Home Together Traveling in Eastern Europe, Behind the Wall
Previous stop Weekend in Romania; not finding accommodation
Next stage Going to Transylvania and getting robbed by the BnB.
Trips taken, travel stories divided by continent
Anecdotes, divided by type in travel narratives
Countries visited in my travel stories
Leave a Reply
You must be logged in to post a comment.